ft 5100 user manual

35FT-5200, including most of its features and adding some ofNinty-four freely tunable memories (forty-seven per band)You can also have a code open the squelch or a ring like aMH-26F8 or MH-27b8 DTMF keypad microphone, or the MH-15d8Band CTCSS Decoder option, which also provides a. The factory default appears toI tried an experiment, setting the number to 01. I keyed up into aI'll leave it up to you to decide a use for this feature. IfWhat would be neat would be to have a way to adjust RF power levelBy the way, the technical manual for the 5100 is finally available. The information is pretty spare. No additonal operating notes orIt is worthwile for the alignmentCall the number in your ownersHold down the MHZ key and turn radio onAttributed: Yaesu Crossband Repeat (reported as working on 5100 and 5200): Effect: Enable crossband repeat. Dial up two frequencies you want to crosslink (be sure to pay attention to transmit offsets, if any)When eitherExit crossband repeat mode by repeating steps 2 and 3 above.Yeasu and they explained the situation. They designed the theGood Effect: enable extended receive coverageIt will void your warranty. Remove (6) screws from Top Cover of Radio and (6) screws from Bottom Cover of radio.On the rear of the Control head locate, Unsolder and remove jumper Pad R4072.See the next mod. Install Front Control head, Speaker, Top and Bottom Covers and Reconnect Power to the Radio.If you are a happy owner of the YAESU FT5100 and a computer, hereThis is how you make a copy of the FT5100 You need a converter. RS232 TTL and some terminal program for your computer, say the. MS-Windows Term. The FT5100 read and write serial data at 9600bps 8N1. RPT for transmitting data from the FT5100 or the REV button forWhile capture data from the FT5100 into a file, make sure that youThere are 1277 characters to be saved.

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Please do not offer the downloaded file for sell only use it for personal usage. Looking for other manual? For this no need registration. May be help you to repair. You could suffer a fatal electrical shock. Instead, contact your nearest service center. Note! To open downloaded files you need acrobat reader or similar pdf reader program. In addition, Also some files are djvu so you need djvu viewer to open them. These free programs can be found on this page: needed progs If you use opera you have to disable opera turbo function to download file. If you cannot download this file, try it with CHROME or FIREFOX browser. Translate this page: Relevant OTHER forum topics: Yaesu FTL7002 UHF ado-vevo Sziasztok! Tudna valaki segiteni Yaesu FTL-7002 tip. URH ado-vevo mukodesi tartomanyanak a boviteseban. Nem talalok anyagot hozza.Most 450-490Mhz kozott mukodik, de nekem 430-450Mhz-ig kellene. Ha tud valaki segiteni megkoszonom. Udv:pandora yaesu FYG-3u hasznalata sziasztok.CsabaYou can write in English language into the forum (not only in Hungarian). Installation.. 7Mobile Installation 7. External Speakers 9. Other Mobile Accessories 9. Base Station Installation 9. Operation.. 10. Preliminary Setup 10. Important Terms 11. Squelch Setup 12. Main Channel Band Selection 13. Dual-Channel Receive 13. Selective Channel Receiver Muting 15. Transmitting 15Setting Standard Repeater Offset 17. Automatic Repeater Shift 17. Storing Memories 18. Recalling Memories 19. Alternating Band Memory Selection 19. Call Channel Memories 20. Separate Transmit Frequency Memories 20Hiding and Erasing Memories 21. Scanning 21. Memory Skip Scanning 22. Programmable Subband Limits 22. Priority Channel Monitoring 24. CTCSS (Subaudible Tone) Operation 25. CTCSS Bell Paging with the FTS-22 26. DTMF Code Squelch 27. DTMF Paging 28. Storing Code Memories 29. Responding to a DTMF Page, and Resetting 3Q. In Case of Problems. 32. Resetting the CPU 33Memory Cloning. 34. Packet Radio TNC Interconnections.

I owe an USCC card with 3 channels and I am usingTX-delay may be adjusted till a minimum setting ofNevertheless, until today, I do not see a disadvantage compared to commercial 9600I never had problems, whyHave fun and a lot of success using 9600 baud. Yaesu FT-5100 on 9600 Bauds There is also mention of the Yaesu FT-5100 dual-band transceiver beingStan WA1LOU writes that he spoke with Chip Margelli K7JA of Yeasu. Customer Service. The bottem line is: Yes the FT-5100 will do 9600 baud out of the box. The Japanese manufacturesThe spec calls for a transmit signal inputThe receive output as 300 mV p-p at 1 kohm. All transceivers that conform to thisAccording to Chip, future. Yeasu radios will feature the 9600 baud standard port and optimization. Icom and Standard are mentioned as other manufactures adopting the standard.I didn't ask to see the manualThe questions I would liked answered are the same as. Walt and John expressed in their missives. Think about it - 9600 baud is now in the reach of everyone. Especially thinkThe microsats requiredDon't flame meI still don't have it right and I have had toDual In-Band Receive: works as advertised except forI assume thatControl wart: (are you listening Yaesu?) You can onlyCTCSS decode: squelch opens quickly when normal CTCSS decodeThere is a CTCSS page function thatScan is initiatedAlinco 590 that I used to have.There are twoFirst, you canSecond, you can activate one 2m(440) bank in the main receiverIf I were planningAs it is, I'm aPlease try it on your 5200 (or 5100) and tell me if it worksSelect frequency and turn on the code squelchI've owned a Yaesu FT-5100 for about a year and a half and I'm delighted with the rig. Recently, I've experienced two mysterious resets of the rig that have required complete reprogramming of the memories. Since I did the extended receive mod, it also requiresBoth resets occured while using the rig in my Chevy S-10 4x4.

When transmitting data from a file to the FT5100 make sure that yourAlthough I do not own the wireless mike, I was able to build anIt is somewhat similar to the. CAT interface I have built for my FT-757 HF rig, but mostly like theThe serial data paramaters are 4800 N82. The commands sent to theThe RMC mode ON command (16)When the RMC mode is ON, aThe commands are as follows: Use this hardware at yourHello user of a FT-5100. The following instructions describe one possibility toI want to point out that before starting, you should be familiar with a solderingIf not, ask a friend who knows howLet's start: You will need a schematic diagram, a soldering iron, a capacitor of 100nF, twoOpen the transceiver. (Attention: you lose your warranty!). Solder one side of the 4 wire cable at the 4 pin socket, no matter with way. Thereafter, you need to enter the cable into the transceiver. Have a look atIt's covered by aUnscrew it and you have a cleanDoing the transformation at the reception side: Get the LF at the de-modulator. That's pin 9 at IC MC3372ML (Q404) on the IF unit. Solder one wire at this pin. Therewith you are already now able to receive 9600 baud on 70cm and simultaneously,You may also still do phone using the microphone connector. Doing the transformation at the transmitting side: First, solder the resistor of 30kOhm at pin 13 of IC MB1504PF-G-BND (Q701) on theNow, solder the second wireWhat happens to be ok forBut using the microphoneOpen the front panel and solder the third wire to pin 6 ofLast but not least, solder the last wire to ground on each side. That's all. Not too difficult, isn't it. Please, check all soldering before the re-assembly. This may avoid later trouble. The transformation is done. Now, you just need to connect the TNC. BecauseNow you may do your first try. In general: After the re-assembly, it should work immediately with 9600 baud, of course your. TNC has to be set-up properly.

I turned them both down to their minimum settings. Having done that, when I press the Lo button setting on the radio I get about 1.8 Watt out, and, when I press Hi setting I get about 17 Watts out. Reducing the power output completely solves the overheating of the PA issue, and, 17 Watt is more than enough power to hit the Toronto repeater from Rochester. So, one can adjust the volume.I did get a report of low audio one day, and, have replaced the C5 capacitor in the MH-27 microphone. I may not have needed to do this, but, it was an interesting repair to do. Really, if you have one of these older radios, there is absolutely no need to purchase anything newer. I have used it only as a base station. The FT-5100 has been a great radio. Long ago I took the cover off and turned the power output pots for low and hi power settings down to minimum. With button on lo the radio outputs about 1.8 W and on hi about 17 W. Turning the pots for output power down completely solves the over-heating problem, and, for 100% of my contacts (all by repeater for this rig), way more than enough power. I also set the lights on dim, and, they still work after 26 years of use. The radio is fairly easy to program, transmits from 140 MHz to 150 Mhz and receives from 140 MHz to 174 Mhz. Not sure transmit width of 440 band. The radio looks good, and, has buttons on the front from common controls unlike today's radios. I did replace, with about 3 hours of work, the C5 capacitor for audio out on my MH-27 Microphone. I used a great vido on youtube (search MH-27 mic repair). I am not 100% sure the mic really needed it, but, the audio out was reported low on our repeater so I did it. Mic is fine now. If I could buy another today I would. I've had my FT-5100 for nearly 17 years now and still love it. Of that time I've used it as my primary mobile for probably 15 years in several vehicles.

The mount I use in the S-10 is a cellular style single post mount that does a nice job of not being in the way, but is prone toIn my work vehicle I use a Motorola floor mount that does an excellent job of holding the radio sturdy. Since I brought the rig into the house to do the job of repro-gramming, I decided to open it up and look for any sign of loose hardware or broken cabling. I found that the flat printed cableClose investigation revealed that there are several metal tabs protruding through the board that are from the metal frame that holds the LCD in place. These tabs are bent slightly to lock the frame to the circuit board. Unfortunately, the flat cable folds and presses tightly against two of the tabs along the edge of the cotrol head circuit board. I noticed that at least one conductor may have been exposed by pressure on the tab. This probably resulted in this line being grounded at some time, a situation that was likely aggravated by vibration in my S-10. My fix of this problem was to put a small piece of electrical tape over the sharp corner of each tab, then a larger piece that entirely covers the tab and adheres to both the circuit board and the inside of the bezel. Now there is a double layer of tape between the tab and the flat cable, also you may want to put a layer of tape on the flat cable for additional protection. As near as I could tell, the wire was not broken (whew!) by the contact. Now time will tell if this was the cause my mysterious resets or if the trouble is elsewhere. One thing I am certain of is that I probably headed of some other problem by doing this, like an all expense paid trip for my radio to Yaesu USA. If nothing else, send me a packet message and I'll send a copy your way. Update: It's been over three and one half years since I applied this fix and so far (knock on wood!) the problem has not re-occured. I've not seen any other mention of this problem, so perhaps this was an isolated case.

Yale journal of biology and medicine. Thresholds were significantly lower for musically trained than for non-. Fast Reactor Subassembly Design Modifications for Increasing. Electricity Generation Efficiency. R. Wigeland and K. D. Hamman. Connect other microphone to Yaesu FT-100 English language. English language (FT-290) How to prevent the touch-tone pad from automatically keying up your rig English language (FT-290) Some small mods for FT-290 MK I English language (FT-290) FT-290R Mk1 - mod for 1kc and 100hz steps on FM for satellite working English language (FT-290) Common faults found on the FT-290R English language (FT-3000) Yaesu FT-3000 TX mod from 144 to 148 to 140 to 174 MHz. English language (VX-5R) Expanded range for VX5R. NOTE Please make sure that you are familiar with the pin numbers on the mic sokets (fitted to end of mic leads) before you make any connections. NOTE Please make sure that you are familiar with the pin numbers on the mic sokets (fitted to end of mic leads) before you make any connections.Place the FL2100B on its side with the LOADING control nearest the surface that the amp is setting on. Make sure that the amp has been UNPLUGED and that the PLATE VOLTAGE has dissipated before you proceed. Remove the screws that hold the bottom cover on and remove the bottom cover of the amp. Set the BANDSWITCH to: 10 Set the PLATE CONTROL to: 9 Set the LOADING CONTROL to: Fully counter-clockwise Disconnect the 850 volt red wire that leads from the transformer to the DIODE BOARD (located right behind the TRANS OPERATE switch. Install a SWR bridge between the EXCITER and the FL2100B. Tune your HF rig to 24.950. Turn the FL2100B on and place the amp in the OPERATE MODE. Excite the the AMP with an AM signal, enough so that you can calibrate (set) your SWR meter. Place your SWR meter in the REV position and read the SWR.

While in the TX mode, tune L206 (located near the GROUNDING WINGNUT just inside of the amp chasis) untill you achive your lowest SWR reading. You have just completed the retuning proceedure of the 10 meter ANTENNA INPUT COIL. If you would like to operate both 10 meters and 12 meters, you may want to tune L206 on a frequency between your operating fre-quencys on 10 and 12. Re-solder the 850 volt red wire (with the AMP off and un-pluged). Re-assemble the AMP and enjoy INCREASED POWER OUTPUT on 12 METERS. This modification is read 749 times. The input power is reduced from 2KW to about 1700 Watts, but is still capable of producing 1KW output. ZL3AG This modification is read 840 times.Remove 4 screws from top cover. Remove top cover and right and left panels. Remove 4 screws from power combiner unit and remove screen plate. Locate switch so1 on the cpu unit and set to off position ( a small screwdriver can be used to reach switch) Reassemble unit. This modification is read 789 times. This modification will desensitize the protection circuitry; but still allow it to function when an improper condition exists. NOTE: The positive lead goes to the base of the transistor.I put mine in parallel with th existing 0.047. ALIGNMENT OF NEW CICUITRY CM COUPLER 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Remove the ALC cable. TB-9601- Yaesu (562)404-2700 top of page This modification is read 732 times. 19-07-1998 (FRG-100) FRG-100 30 KHz TO 30 MHz this is possible For reception to 30 Khz to 30 MHz: Press and hold the following keys while turning on POWER: - SSB and FM keys. Two of them, made in the last year, will only go to 50KHz. Dave MW1DUJ This modification is read 998 times.This modification is read 896 times. Frank This modification is read 956 times.

I've extensively used it for a cross-band repeater for many hours on end (simply set to low power) with NO ill effects. However I have been careful to keep is well ventilated. On low power it get warm, you can always keep your hand on it. It is extremely easy to field program (all without a computer) and needs no complex menu system. I have never lost a single dial light or any power output modules. I have never had any memory problems and I have only replaced the memory battery one time, myself (it's not rocket science). The mic is not the most robust, but adequate if you don't leave it exposed to the daily sun. As for Yaesu tech-support and repairs, they have their good days and their bad days (don't we all). I've caught them on both occasions, and their turn-around time varies a LOT. But hey, they generally have great products with only a few exceptions (like the sorry FT-90). I'll keep my FT-5100 till they pry it from my cold dead hands. This will destroy the PA module. This overheating problem has been well documented. Read the review about the heat compound and the fan, it may help. The fan does not come on before the heat is well above safe levels. I am going to try to re-mount the PA module as sugested but the design is very bad as the PA is not directly mounted to the back heat sink for proper cooling. As things often go, I was forced to sell it at one point, and I regretted ever doing so. I've recently had a chance to buy another from a co-worker of mine and jumped on the chance. Even after all these years, the radio is still an excellent performer. I own an Icom IC-2200H also, and I put the two to the test. I received better audio reports from the Yaesu, while the Icom can go a little further on it's 65w output opposed to 50w (2m) for the 5100. All in all I was pleased with my first 5100, and I'm just as pleased with it's replacement, and am sure to get years more service out of this radio. At the time they were state of the art dual bands.

Both have worked very well over the years. Had to replace the dial light bulbs in the 5200 a few years ago. Learned now to not keep them on bright. The mic. just went bad on the 5100. Here in eham I found the fix. About 15min, and a trip to RS fixed the microphone. Back on the air with the 5100, sold the 5200. Newer rigs do much more however. It started developing an intermittent power problem last month so I think all in all this rig has served me well. With low hours the memory failed. It took a long time to get the battery replaced, which Yaesu didn't recommend as a DIY repair. After the battery was replaced, it became obvious that the battery wasn't the problem, because I still lost memory settings after the new battery was finally installed. With very low hours the final amp section developed an intermittent audio cut out problem if the finals got too hot when using high power. Then, finally the mic up and died. I estimate that I had a grand total of less than 20 hours of key down xmit time before I relegated the rig to the bin. For those thinking about buying one of these rigs used - caveat emptor, this was not Yaesu's finest design hour. But my FT-5200 went back to Yaesu four different times for repairs of various sorts, including (if memory serves) a bad switch, a CPU problem, a cooling fan failure, and a bad final output transistor. For a single final output transistor. What annoyed me most, though, was Yaesu's snail's pace service (on one occasion they had the radio for over two months), poor attitude of the technical support phone staff, and thin customer communications. I see no reason to buy another Yaesu product. When you subscribe, you receive only messages forOther useful informationThe site will be something of which everyone involved can be proud to say they were a part. Contact the site with comments or questions. Modify your. ICOM R7000 to scan and search faster English language. If users run too general or. Journal of Human Evolution..

The part of schematics below shows receiver AGC circuit; the mod, marked in red, consists simply in switching off the first stage in the AGC voltage amplifier chain; to obtain this, a simple switch brings base of Q1020 (transistor) to ground potential, so effectively zeroing control voltage (thus bringing to zero S-meter too). The switch should preferably be a slider, but can also be a common miniature toggle type; first side should be connected to ground by a very short wire, whilst the other side should be brought to Q1020 base by a very short (10-15 cm) piece of thin coax (e.g. RG162, RG174, but definitely not an AF type, whose shielding is not very good). Coax braid should be grounded at switch end only; the other end should be cut and insulated by a small piece of tape, or a short piece of plastic sheath. Shielding is very important because, when AGC is on, spurious signals could enter the circuit and be amplified by the transistor, thus modulating incoming signals in IF stages and spoiling receiver output. A last notice: when switching AGC to off, audio level can increase dramatically, so causing ear shock in headphone listeners: remember to set audio gain to zero before switching. This modification is read 928 times.I use a DIPOLE fed by coax which I connect into the (SW2) connector which works fine for all of the HF bands above the BC band. After looking at the schematic the other day, I discovered that I could place a 100 Ohm resistor from jack (SW1) to the (BC) jack which provides the receiver with an antenna for the BC band.It has much too many lows and hardly any highs in the audio band. Surprisingly, most of the problem is caused by the combination 2200 Ohm series and 220 nF to ground; R11 and C13 in the upper right corner of the diagram. Cutting away C13 is easy: it is a small blue tantalum cap in the middle of the FM board. THe FM board itself is mounted on the right of the back panel.

You could replace C13 with a 10 nF capacitor to get rid of some of the 455 kHz energy that it was supposed to filter out. I did this. While I was at it, I changed C24 and C25 both from 1 uF to 220 nF to get rid of the spectrum below 300 Hz. And finally I changed C26 from 10 nF to 6.8 nF, and C28 from 4.7 nF to 3.3 nF in order to have the response flat up to about 3.5 kHz. But really, removing C13 is all that is really necessary to enjoy a vast improvement in sound. The Hamcom modem is easily sensitive enough to use on the REC output, once you made this very easy modification. This modification is read 958 times. So, dust did its job, and dust is very effective on switches as you know. One switch in particular can make your receiver quite def. This is the attenuator switch on the rear panel. It's easely overlooked, but this dusty att.-switch can make the difference between a receiver, and a piece of useless furniture in your room. So, if your receiver doesn't quite receive as it used to, JUST CLEAN this little switch on the back-panel with contact-spray. You don't need to open the receiver, just spray a little bit in from the outside. Pull the mains-plug before you spray, spray a LITTLE, move the switch a few times and give it 30 minutes to dry. (because you accidentely sprayed on active parts inside ofcourse) 73' Derk This modification is read 1036 times. At the bottom of the receiver you'll find a small metall plate, wich is fixed by a black knob. Pull this knob till you feel a click and remove this plate. You will now see a storage-pack for penlight batteries. Refresh those batteries. But. maybe you are unlucky and there is no storage-pack for batteries at all. This means that the memory-module was never installed, as it is optional. (I'm sorry) With no optional memory-pcb the FINE-TUNE knob WON'T work either. To enter a frequency: Choose the freq.

I will not accept any comment from thus who destroy there equipement by forgotting this simple fact: don't play with the fire. Accept all apologise for the poor English you'll find here, Froggy's and proud of it;-). Here is a powerfull tips to expand the memory capabilities of your beloved FRG7700. Unfortunately I don't still have the RX and its scheme but I can easyly remember what I've done few years ago. During my first operation on this receiver I have been surprised by the memory option of the 7700. As a confirmed Electronic Engineer I have never seen a memory chip with only twelve position (simply because 12 is not a multiple of 2). Its why I have carefully studied the memory electronic scheme and quickly discovered the monstruous Yaesu solution. Once you have located the memory chip you can differentiate the adress bus from the data bus. I presume that Yaesu designer wanted to find a cheap solution to remote the memory ( which was sold as an option). The actual twelve positions rotary knob is the cheapest commutator you can find. What I propose you is to leave this knob on the RX ( better than a big hole on the front side) and to add a little box on one side with the new memory control. First of all you have to locate (the electronic diagram is highly requested) the 9 wires coming from the memory printed board to the 12 pos. knob. Once you have located it you have now to find which wire is the common one and which others are the adress one. You will extract those wires out from the apparatus. You need 2 coding wheels (not sure of the translation) in order to code from 00 to FF on 8 wires. At the rear side of each coding weels you'll find 5 contact, one is the common one and the four others are the coding output. Take 4 wires form the 8 you select as the adress one and connect it on this four contact and then take the 4 last coming from the RX and connect it to the second commutator on the four coding contact.

Take the common wire and by a strap connect it to both of the common contact of the commutator. It doesn't matter how you connect the 8 adresses wires on the 2 commutator because you don't care if the information is in a correct order in the chip or not, what you need is 256 different frequencies. If you have performed the mod correctly you have know 256 memories better the my actual FRG100 (50 mem). If you need more help, please send attached with your mail a clean scan of the memory scheme. I will make a small drawing to explain my mod. 73 to all listeners. There are many screws to remove. It is all too easy to loose one. NEVER ever leave them loose on the table or bench. Components required: ? ? ? ? 1 x.01 capacitor 1 x small cable tie Approx 12 to 18 inches of smallish diameter Audio cable (coaxial screened essential) 1 cup of coffee To gain access to the NFM discriminator on this radio is easy BUT only do it if you feel capable of doing one very fine solder connection.The instructions below relate to the MPX socket. You can choose any of the sockets that you will not need but you must cut the tracks leading to that socket before adding soldering the coax thereto. Step-by-step Instructions 1. 2. 3. 4. Disconnect power and other cables at the back. Remove top and bottom covers. Be careful to correctly identify this pin AND be careful with the soldering, it is a fine bit of soldering and is easy to short out this to the adjacent pads. Leave thecapacitor hanging in the air for the moment. 5. Use a small needle file to drill a small hole in the top portion of the nfm pcb where there are no tracks.Solder the screen of the coax to the earth track so that it will present the inner conductor very close to or touching the free leg of the capacitor. Now clamp this coax cable into position using the cable tie (as mentioned in 5 above) to secure it.

Solder the inner conductor to the free end of the capacitor Orientate the radio so that the front panel is facing you and looking into the radio from the top, thread the free end of the coax to the bottom, by way of gap between the main pcb and the case at the back, right hand side (near the two white connector plugs) Tuck the coax under the big choke (the thing that looks like a transformer). BE CAREFUL not to put any strain on the coax. Leave a little slack.The coax should be poking up at the left hand side nearest you. The pin on the left is the earth (ground) pin. Prepare the audio coax appropriately and solder the screen to the earth pin and the inner core to the middle pin. The squelch control WILL cut in and out on the discriminator line in the same fashion as on the normal audio.Do not attempt to do this if you do not feel confident when using soldering equipment. Do not blame me if you screw up your receiver or do any damage to anything you are using. First write down all the stored frequencies, in case the memories of the receiver get lost. Then turn it off and disconnect all cables. I will not explain how to open the case. If you can't find it out by yourself, you sure won't be able to do the work. What you see above, is the Printed Circuit Board (PCB) of the FRG9600, seen from the bottom. Beware, the the sensitivity is not very good in the expanded frequency range, but it is still usable. Also interference from the computer might matter. I've also noticed that some receivers might be better, others might be less good, depending on how the front-end is aligned. I'm working on this, so stay tuned:-). Now turn around the opened FRG9600, so that you can look inside from the top. Locate the BAND UNIT. This is the vertical circuit board with a metal frame, closest to the front panel. Next to it, on the main Circuit Board, there is the text BAND UNIT written. You have to solder the 3 jumper wires on this Band Unit.